Monthly Archives: October 2015

Hilary and Gloria

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The very gorgeous Jill, my fantastic circus performing PhD student who lives in NYC, bought tickets to Gloria Steinem for us to have the quintessential New York book reading experience. We caught the train to Brooklyn as we were meeting Jill at BAM’s Harvey theatre. It was the steepest and scariest theatre to sit in, but we left feeling empowered to rule the world.

It was a bit interesting to be part of the Hilary chanting New York set, but also slightly sobering, when we had to walk to the theatre through the massive protests about a 16-year-old African American kid that had been shot and killed on the street the night before at 6pm, in exactly the spot where we were standing. In many ways NYC feels just so safe and the people in the streets are much friendlier than anywhere else I have been – every time you stop, someone is asking you whether you need help, the teenagers at the ticket machines, the older people when you are standing with a map. It is, however, slightly disconcerting that in the friendliest city in the world you can only buy low alcohol wine in the supermarket, but you can buy a gun.

I couldn’t help asking Gloria whether Hilary’s run to the White House will be triumphantly brought down like other world female leaders. She thinks Hilary will make it the house on Pennsylvania Avenue but then the fight will begin.  I guess we will see. NYC please just reassure us that Trump will only get as far as signing books.

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Railroad rats

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I have decided that I really hate mice but rats are sort of like little squirrels. I have been watching the ones that have survived the NYC poison squad, sitting up like squirrels, eating nuts in the subway. I must admit there is the security of me on the platform, and the rats on the rails, but they were rather cute.

The weather here has been totally glorious. Bright sunshine and never cold – I think it must be the humidity. The young dude on the Staten Island Ferry did quiz me about whether I was totally normal given my t-shirt wearing ways. Virginia has been easy to find – I can spot her a km a way as her t-shirts are all striped. We have had a number of where’s Wally moments – sitting beside each other desperately trying to find each other (even without the mules).

We paid homage to the lady of enlightenment and then back to the centre of power – homage to the New York Stock Exchange. A rub of the bull’s face (we weren’t having a bar of rubbing him anywhere else, although the giggling Japanese girls were well into it), a moment of serenity at the 911 memorial and then walked miles to play homage at the multinational temple of coffee – mules have been competing with spiced pumpkin latte.

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Moscow Mule

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I have become totally addicted (well in a boring, one a day sort of way) to Moscow Mules. They were apparently invented in Manhattan in the 40s so it is sort of fitting that gals in Manhattan would drink them while visiting. I realise it should be a cosmopolitan, but I rather like the thought of tin mug, 1940s, anti sobriety types slugging back Vodka with a good hit of ginger.

After hiking 30km on foot around Williamsburg, Brooklyn and Manhattan on our sturdy two feet, we needed a damn mule to carry us back to the 32nd Street abode. Well the mule occurred on the border between Chinatown and Little Italy, parked up on a street bench, outside a very groovy restaurant. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the four legged, carry two stuffed women type, but the one in a glass, adorned with lime. There is something easy drinking about them there mules and by the time we stood up (only after one) there was a moment of confusion about whether we were in NYC or downtown China in the 40s.

We headed off in the morning on the L train to Williamsburg, a totally cool neighbourhood in Brooklyn. If I wanted to have the cool and hip New York experience of living here it would be Williamsburg for me. Breakfast at EGG – and then a short ride to DUMBO – yes Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass. I must be awfully slow, but it wasn’t until this trip that I understood the acronyms. I thought SOHO was just SOHO – no South of Houston street – makes sense really when you think about how much they love to number and letter streets – makes it exceptionally easy for tourists.

A wander around the gorgeous Danish designer shops in DUMBO and then across the Brooklyn Bridge to walk off the eggs. A stroll through the financial district, up through China Town to the Mule and then right across Central Park. We danced along a bit to the dudes in central park (the non shirt wearing, young, gorgeous ones) and then visited the completely stoned ones who were skating in their high glam. Roller skating minions are pretty cool.

Mickey on my wrist told me we had walked 30kms and the feet felt like it – but how fabulous to do NYC in a day.

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Breakfast with Carrie

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The trip from JFK was incredibly easy via the air rail to Jamaica and then the Long Island Rail Car to Penn Station. We decided that the train would be the quickest way into Manhattan on a Friday night. We arrived at our hotel right below the Empire State and wandered around the corner to the lovely Hangawi restaurant where I had eaten before. It was only a short walk along Korean Way between 5th and 6th.

We desperately needed to walk off our lovely dinner so hiked up to Times Square. A bit of an assault on the sensors to go from serious (and very dark) Zen, and organic, vegan dinner to the sensory overload of minions, batman and the US army recruiting van.

This morning we had a great walk into Carrie’s neighbourhood, and I found my NYC holiday flat. I am sure I could find someone that would like to use it occasionally.

From the corner of Gay and Christopher we strolled through the West Village to the very cool Meatpacking District and up onto the highline- New York’s lovely park, elevated above Manhattan, and along the old rail tracks. The walk was just lovely. VDS met a friend of her daughters and so I came on the loveliest afternoon ever. I did the free tour of the NYC public library and am now sitting surrounded by Byron and the great romantics – the most fabulous place to sit and ponder, work, or just breathe in the works of great men and women. When I collect the keys of my gorgeous new West Village apartment, I will be able to sit here often when I visit

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A taste of Brazil

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We spent some time in the very upmarket Rosedale and behaved like small children with the Halloween mania starting to rev up. It was a lovely farewell to Toronto.
When the travel agent booked our flight, we did express a little concern about our flight from Toronto to New York. No kangaroo on our tail, just a $50 flight to the Big Apple on board an obscure (in our mind) Brazillian airline. Well our delightful flight attendants need to train the staff at QANTAS, and no $50 sardine squashing on this flight. Lovely newish plane, big seats and stacks of leg room. The coolest safety video ever. Brazilian wine and blueberry muffins (yes a slightly odd combination) served with fantastic smiles. The views out the window are amazing.. Dark red, mountains, rivers and lakes. We would be exceptionally pleased to fly TAM to Melbourne, but alas the seatbelt signs are on for our descent into NY after the super short flight.
We cleared US customs in Canada so are hoping that it will be quick through JFK. Slightly odd being fingerprinted leaving a country, but all good if it also means no queues  into NYC. Thank goodness we saved a fair bit on our accommodation in Toronto as the prices in NYC are seriously scary. We found somewhere super expensive, but a quarter of the price of anywhere else in Midtown Manhattan and I am getting very excited as I can see ‘that’ torch bearing woman out the window.

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The city of sirens

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Well I have never heard so many sirens. Even with earplugs, the noise was unbelievable. All day and all night. If something terrible was happening in Toronto, no one would take any notice, as the constant sirens make you immune. The first night, we were up every hour convinced that the city was under siege. We booked ourselves on a tour to Niagara and were not disappointed. A crack up of a bus driver (Sub continent, chain smoking, lead footed, nutter) collected us at 8.30am and we held on to our seats for the hour trip to Niagara.

There is something slightly strange about the locals. You would think we would be the cold ones, but VDS and I have spent most of the time in really light clothing, as despite a few snow flurries, we have been bathed in glorious sunshine. The locals resemble animals on two feet with so much fur, coats, boots and gloves – from the trendy young guy at the traffic lights with the fox around his neck, to the pigeons fighting for space over the road vents, with the people that are homeless. As always, the level of homelessness in Canada is always a bit of a shock.

We had showered in the morning but really there was not much need, as we got drenched riding under a boat beneath natures fury. The falls were amazingly impressive. I had been to Niagara before and had been disappointed. I am not sure what the difference was this time but it was fantastic. We had a fabulous lunch above the falls with a window view of the massive walls of water. We got lots of odd looks from the fur wearing Canadians as VDS was padding around in bare feet. Her runners were soaked so she made the decision to go on a barefoot walkabout. We had a lead footed drive to the lovely Niagara on the Lake and then on to a winery to warm ourselves with ice wine.

The last few days have been quite frenetic with long conference days. We have definitely earned our keep after delivering three workshops, presenting six papers, a poster and chairing sessions. The conference organisers call us the mad Aussies as we have found kindred homes people and have spent a huge amount of time laughing. I don’t think I have laughed so much in ages. Sore ribs and a broken tooth are testament to the raucous time.

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Canadian Bears

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Great flight from Melbourne to LAX. I always dread the trip through LA airport, but oh my goodness, it is now so civilised. No queues at all. Straight to a very organised set of booths, where you enter the U.S. in self directed mode. A machine where you finger print yourself, smile at the camera and print out your ticket of entry, complete with photo. The fact that you look like a bedraggled, chain smoker, with terrible bags under your eyes doesn’t seem to worry the U.S. border control. A few steps to the smiling man who takes your ticket and wishes you a fine stay in the U.S. of A. It makes one wonder whether they have sacked all of the usual grumpy border control people to improve tourist spending. Of course, as we arrive, Obama is smiling at us from the wall, as we walk beneath the star spangled banner, with the same warm welcome underneath.

The trip across the U.S. on the ‘flying bus’ was bearable, I guess. I really hate the last bit. You have just staggered off an international flight and then you have the lovely AA flight that just goes on forever. Packed in like sardines, with the feeling of being on a rather tired bus.

Our arrival into Toronto was easy. A welcome to Canada this time, and a shortish cab ride to Simcoe Street, right in the center of the city. Virginia’s choice of the Toronto Furnished Apartments was fabulous. A great two-bedroom apartment, two bathrooms, laundry, full kitchen and outside balcony.

We needed to work all weekend so took our weekend on Thursday and Friday. After the usual first night, ‘I am in a different country’ terrible sleep we headed towards Toronto Zoo in search of mother and father pandas and panda twins. The ride on the train and bus went on forever, and we really thought we would end up back in LA, it took so damn long, but finally arrived and the bears were totally gorgeous.

We arrived back into Toronto and it was not bears but bluejays causing total pandemonium. Seems like it was the first Canadian baseball team to be in the finals since goodness knows when.  We wandered in a jet lagged haze as exceptionally excited Canadians high fived us on every street corner, and the noise from packed bars told us every time a home run was scored. We didn’t understand one thing that was happening but the people watching was highly entertaining.

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Filed under Canada/US October 2015