Monthly Archives: October 2019

After a few days of the most gorgeous people imaginable, I felt like I needed another dose of European fairy tales. My Taurean need for beauty has been slightly challenged by Russian, spy ship hotels so I have been looking lovingly over the water at Tallinn in Estonia. Everyone has told me that if I want fairy tales, Tallinn is the place.  It was an easy tram ride to the ship terminal (did I say how good the Finnish public transport is), and then on to the luxury of the Megastar for my trip to Estonia. I was surrounded by Alex’s country people who started stockpiling bottles and bottles of alcohol of every type the minute we boarded. Checking the prices, after the cost in Finland, very understandable. I think even I might do some shopping on the way back.

Tallinn was really the stuff of fairy tales, but maybe more Rapunzel than Cinderella. I had the loveliest walk through the old town and then stopped for lunch and the largest cider ever. Arriving back into the Port of Helsinki the super-efficient public transport system kicked in again. Within twenty minutes of disembarking I was tucked up in bed thinking of Virginia – Yes, Say Yes to the Dress in Finnish. Virginia would love it!

I don’t even know how to begin to describe the fantastic Helsinki library. The Wi-Fi in the spy thriller hotel has been driving me nuts. It lasts about five minutes and then it cuts off and you get all of these warnings about people trying to steal your identify and everything else. If the phone wifi works, the computer doesn’t. It has been a challenge to try and get any work done but that is where Oodi comes in. I do love a good library and often work in them somewhere in the world, but this one was just amazing. Not terribly amazing for old women but amazing all the same. The building has large curves all through it, so people lie around on the steep curved pine floor that reminded me of a sinking Titanic, or on concrete steps where you sit cross legged with your laptop on your knee. There are lovely mid-century type chairs that sit precariously on the sloping ship deck. There are prams everywhere, screaming children, people sewing, binding books, playing computer games, and sleeping in the sun streaming through the massive Titanic glass structure. I loved the communal sewing machines and the young people bringing their mending in to do. They call it a library, but the subtitle is Helsinki’s community living room. It was definitely that. Oodi fits with the whole philosophy of Finnish culture. Now the buildings might not be beautiful (except for Oodi) but the focus on education, childcare, and health and well-being is inspiring.

I eventually found a sort of conventional desk to work at in one of the lovely coffee shops but felt boringly conservative so packed up, sat on the steps and worked on my knee. The problem was that the people watching was far more interesting than the work and even there, the spies played havoc with my Wi-Fi.

Kristina flew with me to Helsinki where I was doing a keynote at a conference. I don’t know what I was expecting but I think I had this total misconception that Helsinki would be beautiful because the people are so wonderful. I thought Kristina was being negative as she kept telling me how much she dislikes it. Well I am not sure.

After fairy tale, picture perfect spots in all of Europe and fantastic London, Helsinki was a bit of a surprise. It is very grey. Large imposing buildings that reminded me of some of the architecture in China. A bit foreboding and austere.

The hotel that we stayed in was near the station and was a large, and now as I have got used to it, cool, but very austere building that from the outside resembles a large, grey, Russian ship. I keep forgetting that I am so very close to Russia, so I am really not sure why the architecture has surprised me. The austere exterior was carried through to the inside. I did feel like I was caught up in some Russian spy thriller with the original black phone on the very utilitarian desk. I fell into bed and dreamed of submarines and the Hunt for Red October.

When I woke after sleeping in a super comfortable bed, I started to see the cool 1950s architecture and the amazing light fittings and furniture. Yes, all very austere but Jan would love it. Vinyl everywhere and very upright leather, but very 50s stylish seating around the walls in the lobby.

Whilst Helinski has that austere feeling to it, there is nothing austere about the prices. Oh my goodness, it is so expensive. I have just had to close my eyes and wave my card. It has been good for my liver though, as decided paying $40 for more than one G&T was more than my poor dilapidated bank balance could manage. I was keen to try just one of the fabulous Finnish gins with berries and rosemary and it was worth it because of the dark, foreboding bar that made my spy thriller imagination run completely wild.

Finnair was my introduction to Scandi cool. The cleanest plane I have ever seen. Even Mark wouldn’t have had to have the wipes out. There is something about pristine flight attendants that I find reassuringly calming. I always feel the slightest bit nervous on American airlines with tracksuit wearing staff. Nothing about appearance and nothing wrong with a tracksuit, just the Finnair navy military like (but oh so stylish) uniforms made me feel I was very safe.

Although Finland is so close, it still took me about ten hours to get to Oulu. I did have to remind myself  that I was only an hour or so drive from Santa’s home and the Arctic Circle. Three hours to Helsinki and then an airport wait, and then another hour or so flight to Oulu.

I have become quite used to the excellent English of the Finns. They are quite funny really as everyone starts every conversation the same way. Multiple apologies in perfect English for their poor English. Kristina who has hosted me in Finland tells me Finnish women apologise for being alive. I did tell them at my keynote address to stop it.

Oulu is a nice small city with a lovely park. Lots of bikes and felt like an easy place to live. The Finnish city architecture is not at all inspiring (well except for Oodi but more about that later) but the absolutely warm and lovely people make up for it. From the lovely taxi driver waiting patiently at the airport for me, to everyone everywhere – they are all just so lovely. Evie would have been excited as I am sure Santa drove my cab a few times. Lovely older men with the bushiest grey beards and twinkly eyes.

The real stand out in Oulu (apart from fantastic work) was the lovely Lapland hotel. There were reindeers everywhere, including on the menu. When I arrived, I got offered a nice stick of reindeer meat – OMG I cannot eat Rudolph. It was on pizza, and in every meal. Thankfully, I had some of the most stunning vegetarian food that I have ever eaten in the restaurant and did add some amazing salmon one night in a lovely French place that my wonderful colleagues took me to. Work was wonderful as again; the nicest people had flown in from interesting parts of Europe. I left feeling super motivated.

My flight from London to Oulu was long but super easy. I am not sure what happens with suitcases, but they just seem to get heavier and heavier despite minimal – hmmm maybe I did go a bit overboard with Fiona’s jam in Paris – shopping. I have been in and out of London a few times and have stayed at the very convenient Kings Cross Hub so I left half the bags there and would be mightily pleased if I don’t see them again (jam also decanted and I think my sister might want that).

I like the Hubs – tiny rooms, but fantastically creative storage and the most comfortable beds you could ever sleep in. London is not the cheapest city in the world so for the convenience of being so central they are fabulous. I have stayed in Goodge Street a few times and just love Fitzrovia, but think I might have found my new favourite address. This time I stayed just down the side of King’s Cross. Really convenient as an easy 5-minute walk to the station so has been simple to go in different directions. The area is growing and is so fascinating.

It seemed silly to have to do a cab and then the Heathrow Express so just jumped on the Piccadilly Line straight to Heathrow. Once we got out of the main tube stations it was fine – off to the land of Santa and reindeers