Monthly Archives: October 2022

Ephesus

Al and I had spent time in Athens only a few short months ago so I wasn’t desperate to go back to the Acropolis. I could see it as I strolled the streets of Athens. I knew that amazing treasures awaited me on the coast of Ionia in Izmir Province in Turkey so I just enjoyed a leisurely Athenian day in the sun.

We arrived into Kusadasi in Turkey at 7 and again climbed on a bus at 7.30 to Meryem Ana Evi or Mother Mary’s House just a few km from Ephesus. It is in the most amazing spot. A really high climb up a mountain and then to the most lushest, coolest forest on the mountain top. Mass was in full swing as it was Sunday morning and it was incredibly peaceful with Christian and Muslim devotees engaged in beautiful singing. 

It was quite a contrast to stroll the stone and marble roads of the most amazing ancient city that I have ever been to. It is hard to describe the sheer enormity of Ephesus. My geography is clearly not great as I hadn’t processed, I was no longer in Europe but in Asia. I have never seen anything like the Library of Celsus or the 25,000 seat theatre, the largest in the ancient world. The theatre is still used for modern day performances. I have sat on Hadrian’s wall in the UK but Hadrian’s Temple here in Anatolia was next level. I was at the juncture of the Silk and Spice Roads and my imagination was in total overdrive. It was just incredible. 

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Nike

When anyone says they would hate a massive cruise ship, it is clear they have never been on one. The Celebrity Apex is so huge it is never crowded and rather like living in a very upmarket small town with fabulous food, great cocktails, and the best views. We left Porto di Civitavecchia right on time at 5pm. Thursday was spent at sea and I think the at sea days are my favourite. Strolled between the pool, a number of bars, one of about ten lovely restaurants, great coffee shops, a fascinating lecture on Ancient Greece and an awesome acrobatic practice in a fabulous bar. 

Friday we docked in Katakolon right on time at 7am. I want this trip to be as easy as possible so had booked a trip to the archaeological site of Olympia and left on a new airconditioned coach at 7.30.  No matter how many times I visit amazing ruins of classical antiquity I can never get my head around standing looking at buildings built between the 8th and 4th century BC. The stadium is amazing, and I dug my toes into the starting stones, looked up at the temples of Zeus and Hera and imagined myself as an ancient Olympian – yes, a wild imagination.

I had a stand on the 590 BC Altar of Hera where they light the Olympic torch using a parabolic mirror to the sun. The Greeks do museums so well and the Archaeological Museum of Ancient Olympia was fantastic. The sculptures off Zeus’s Temple were fantastic but I think my favourite was the winged goddess, Nike of Paionios from 425 BC. 

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A $40 bit of Apple tech

Apart from an issue with a lost bag, my flight from Bendigo to Rome was fantastic. Gotta love when you can drive to the airport just before a flight, jump out essentially in a paddock, and end up a day or so later in the Eternal City. 

Rome was, as always, stunningly beautiful. It wasn’t as crowded as in April and much hotter, but in my short time there managed to throw a coin in a fountain, march for hours through hot Roman streets, and sit on the Spanish steps knocking back a few espressos. I would never drink an espresso at home but hey, when in Roma … 

I stayed in a super convenient hotel near Termini that I thought would make travelling with my bags easy. Didn’t need to worry as the airline had no idea where my bags were. It is slightly amusing that a $40, 20-cent piece size bit of mind-blowing tech from Apple means I can quickly find my bag anywhere in the world. Still, interconnected worldwide baggage service has no idea, and major Australian airline doesn’t know and doesn’t care.

I had a beautiful walk through the deserted early morning Roman streets (no one in Rome wakes up before 10), did a bit of urgent shopping, and then caught a train to Porto di Civitavecchia to board my floating home for the next couple of weeks. All super easy. Now lying around with the stacker doors open of my 5-star floating hotel room, a great breeze through the doors, and as far as I can see, millpond sea.

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