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The ghosts of the Valley of the Weeping

I fell on to the plane after the long and exhausting days of moving house. I do wonder whether moving house is sort of like having a baby; well I hope so, cause I have to do it all again. In the middle you just want to give up, toward the end you think – I just wanna get this over and done with even if I die in the process, and then when it is all over, the memory just comes back in little bursts of panic until it fades, and you can’t remember, so you go back for more.

The flight was easy really. I couldn’t complain at all because I had the loveliest 90-year-old sitting beside me and she flew the whole way without one complaint. She looked about 70 and was a retired physics professor from Cambridge – a bit awe inspiring isn’t it to be a female physicist who started work 65 years before. The journey through Heathrow was all pretty simple and arrived into Glasgow about 5.30pm. Waited patiently for a couple of hours for Carol to pick me up. She said she would be there by 5.45 but by 7.30 I gave up and caught the bus. Arrived into the predictably comfortable Premier Inn on Buchanan with VDS strolling down the street. We went out for a very nice fish pie. Had knocked and knocked on Carol’s door but assumed she was passed out cold. Eighteen odd hours later Carol appeared in search of restorative tea.

VDS and Carol had the car tucked away in the car park over the road and we piled enough suitcases to stay here for a year into the back of a wagon and turned the mighty hearse toward Fort William. This time my trip was with Virginia, Carol and Victoria from Uni Melb, who tagged along for the adventure. Victoria is totally addicted to selfies so all of the way up the road it was .. quick stop .. Selpie O’Castle !! The drive up through the Great Glen was as beautiful as ever with the soaring mountains of the Highlands still covered in snow. Every time I drive up that road I am in awe of the most spectacular scenery but also spooked by the ghosts of the Valley of the Weeping. Mort Ghlinne Comhann, or the massacre of Glencoe always stirs up something in me. Hard to explain when it happened in 1692 but to me there is something about that road. Hey Tom, I have been reading about the massacre and hadn’t processed that the “The Rains of Castamere” is based on it. When we get to where we are going I plan to eat nothing, bolt the doors and cover my head with a wee blanket to keep out the ghosties.

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Hilary and Gloria

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The very gorgeous Jill, my fantastic circus performing PhD student who lives in NYC, bought tickets to Gloria Steinem for us to have the quintessential New York book reading experience. We caught the train to Brooklyn as we were meeting Jill at BAM’s Harvey theatre. It was the steepest and scariest theatre to sit in, but we left feeling empowered to rule the world.

It was a bit interesting to be part of the Hilary chanting New York set, but also slightly sobering, when we had to walk to the theatre through the massive protests about a 16-year-old African American kid that had been shot and killed on the street the night before at 6pm, in exactly the spot where we were standing. In many ways NYC feels just so safe and the people in the streets are much friendlier than anywhere else I have been – every time you stop, someone is asking you whether you need help, the teenagers at the ticket machines, the older people when you are standing with a map. It is, however, slightly disconcerting that in the friendliest city in the world you can only buy low alcohol wine in the supermarket, but you can buy a gun.

I couldn’t help asking Gloria whether Hilary’s run to the White House will be triumphantly brought down like other world female leaders. She thinks Hilary will make it the house on Pennsylvania Avenue but then the fight will begin.  I guess we will see. NYC please just reassure us that Trump will only get as far as signing books.

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Railroad rats

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I have decided that I really hate mice but rats are sort of like little squirrels. I have been watching the ones that have survived the NYC poison squad, sitting up like squirrels, eating nuts in the subway. I must admit there is the security of me on the platform, and the rats on the rails, but they were rather cute.

The weather here has been totally glorious. Bright sunshine and never cold – I think it must be the humidity. The young dude on the Staten Island Ferry did quiz me about whether I was totally normal given my t-shirt wearing ways. Virginia has been easy to find – I can spot her a km a way as her t-shirts are all striped. We have had a number of where’s Wally moments – sitting beside each other desperately trying to find each other (even without the mules).

We paid homage to the lady of enlightenment and then back to the centre of power – homage to the New York Stock Exchange. A rub of the bull’s face (we weren’t having a bar of rubbing him anywhere else, although the giggling Japanese girls were well into it), a moment of serenity at the 911 memorial and then walked miles to play homage at the multinational temple of coffee – mules have been competing with spiced pumpkin latte.

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Moscow Mule

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I have become totally addicted (well in a boring, one a day sort of way) to Moscow Mules. They were apparently invented in Manhattan in the 40s so it is sort of fitting that gals in Manhattan would drink them while visiting. I realise it should be a cosmopolitan, but I rather like the thought of tin mug, 1940s, anti sobriety types slugging back Vodka with a good hit of ginger.

After hiking 30km on foot around Williamsburg, Brooklyn and Manhattan on our sturdy two feet, we needed a damn mule to carry us back to the 32nd Street abode. Well the mule occurred on the border between Chinatown and Little Italy, parked up on a street bench, outside a very groovy restaurant. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the four legged, carry two stuffed women type, but the one in a glass, adorned with lime. There is something easy drinking about them there mules and by the time we stood up (only after one) there was a moment of confusion about whether we were in NYC or downtown China in the 40s.

We headed off in the morning on the L train to Williamsburg, a totally cool neighbourhood in Brooklyn. If I wanted to have the cool and hip New York experience of living here it would be Williamsburg for me. Breakfast at EGG – and then a short ride to DUMBO – yes Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass. I must be awfully slow, but it wasn’t until this trip that I understood the acronyms. I thought SOHO was just SOHO – no South of Houston street – makes sense really when you think about how much they love to number and letter streets – makes it exceptionally easy for tourists.

A wander around the gorgeous Danish designer shops in DUMBO and then across the Brooklyn Bridge to walk off the eggs. A stroll through the financial district, up through China Town to the Mule and then right across Central Park. We danced along a bit to the dudes in central park (the non shirt wearing, young, gorgeous ones) and then visited the completely stoned ones who were skating in their high glam. Roller skating minions are pretty cool.

Mickey on my wrist told me we had walked 30kms and the feet felt like it – but how fabulous to do NYC in a day.

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A taste of Brazil

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We spent some time in the very upmarket Rosedale and behaved like small children with the Halloween mania starting to rev up. It was a lovely farewell to Toronto.
When the travel agent booked our flight, we did express a little concern about our flight from Toronto to New York. No kangaroo on our tail, just a $50 flight to the Big Apple on board an obscure (in our mind) Brazillian airline. Well our delightful flight attendants need to train the staff at QANTAS, and no $50 sardine squashing on this flight. Lovely newish plane, big seats and stacks of leg room. The coolest safety video ever. Brazilian wine and blueberry muffins (yes a slightly odd combination) served with fantastic smiles. The views out the window are amazing.. Dark red, mountains, rivers and lakes. We would be exceptionally pleased to fly TAM to Melbourne, but alas the seatbelt signs are on for our descent into NY after the super short flight.
We cleared US customs in Canada so are hoping that it will be quick through JFK. Slightly odd being fingerprinted leaving a country, but all good if it also means no queues  into NYC. Thank goodness we saved a fair bit on our accommodation in Toronto as the prices in NYC are seriously scary. We found somewhere super expensive, but a quarter of the price of anywhere else in Midtown Manhattan and I am getting very excited as I can see ‘that’ torch bearing woman out the window.

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Bohemian rhapsody and a lesson of history

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Back along the cobblestones for a wander through the wine and cheese market. Had a lovely lunch beside the market with another talented busker playing Bohemian Rhapsody. It is so quiet down here along the river. The majority of tourists are funny creatures that never leave the tourist streets. They don’t seem to process that just one street over there is a far more pleasant world.

It would be really easy to fall asleep in the sun. The locals are snoozing in the sun and there are lots of dogs and well behaved small people. The weather is gorgeous, but after my great lunch of cheese and rose, I guess I should walk. Tempting though to spend the whole afternoon, sipping wine, with the strains of Queen in my ears, and dogs bounding around this oh so pleasant park. But, I need a history lesson.

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I wandered through the Jewish Quarter, and the old Jewish cemetery. Caught between two synagogues, the graves are stacked on top of each other, sometimes twelve deep. The stories in the Prague Jewish Museum and the synagogues are hard to hear. The massive collection of artifacts, ironically, was collected by the Nazis, who wanted to create a museum of a destroyed race. The buildings have gone up around the many synagogues, but the whole area feels so important, in what has been a long and difficult history. Amidst the beauty of Prague, there are some signs of a complex history and current tension. As I wandered back through the major square, there were some peaceful protests that reminds one of the current challenges right across this region.

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Beatles to Bach

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Had a great meandering day through the laneways of Prague. The buskers were out in force, so had a lovely time listening to a talented young singer/guitarist at the Lennon Wall in Velkopřevorské náměstí  in the Malá Strana, or Little Quarter.

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The Gothic, Charles Bridge, gets so crowded, but I like the small streets that run down beside it. I was off wandering, not taking very much notice, and found myself in the middle of a film set. Of course I was lost in my own little world, so didn’t really process what was going on until a very gruff man roared at me in some foreign language. When I did look around, it was an odd site. There were women in period costume strolling the streets, and men in tights asleep in wagons and carriages. I have absolutely no idea what they were filming, just slightly bemused that I didn’t even notice the movie filming signs everywhere and the massive cameras.

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I had been warned that food here was stodgy meat and dumplings, but not true, and I have found some lovely cafes. I had fantastic prawn Pad Thai and then a stroll back to put on something slightly more respectable than my oh so travel worn clothes.

I was very excited as I wandered the cobblestone streets back to the very lovely Church of Our Lady before Týn. I had bought tickets to the Royal Czech Orchestra concert. It was wonderful. Of course the acoustics in the Church were fantastic and I became totally spell bound listening as Vivaldi, Pachelbel and Bach rang out from talented violinists.

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Glass slippers or dusty Nikes?

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I had to come and sit in the tranquility of a church as I have an overwhelming sense of the vapors. Not in a bad way. I am just completely awestruck by the beauty of Prague. I have no idea where I am, or no idea which direction the hotel is, but I think that is ok, cause I seem to be caught right in the middle of a fairytale. I wandered down another fairytale street and am now sitting in a lovely small square. I have given up on technology. It seems somehow wrong to pull the IPAD out amongst the fairytale buildings and the beautiful sound of a talented busker, so am busily scribbling instead in my lovely Italian notepad.  Pigeons are sitting listening, and water is spurting from the beak of a swan atop a beautiful fountain. There are so many tourists in the old square, but as soon as you walk one street over it is an oasis. Tom, these two guys are the most amazing guitarists. Lennon’s Imagine is just beautiful in Czech.

My map is in Czech, which is a slight challenge, but I guess the street signs are too, so I just need to go with it. I have never thrown so much money into hats but I feel like I have been in an outdoor concert all day, so totally worth it.

I have walked kms up cobbled stone streets, past the most whimsical buildings. I have had a lovely day wandering through fantastic marionette stores, beautiful churches and stopping all over the place to listen to the fantastic buskers. I am starting to get my bearings but really, it doesn’t matter being lost, as every turn brings another beautiful sight. There are bits of the city that remind me of Salzburg, which I loved, but then I look up, and the black spires are definitely Bohemian.

I am at the Marriott, which is lovely, and I fell into the deepest sleep last night. I hardly ever dream, but had the most fantastic dreams so I don’t know what that means. The flight from Gatwick was good, but we sat on the tarmac for about an hour and a half, behind what seemed like a hundred or more planes. I would normally be totally bored, but I sat totally intrigued as this lovely young woman started to get a whole weaving factory set up in the plane. She had the whole thing sorted. Her purple shaded wool went up over the tray table and was secured, and then I sat mesmerized as she worked backwards and forwards working a beautiful belt. Just before we landed, I asked her whether she had been to Prague. She had the most beautiful Irish lilt and told me that she had lived in Prague for many years, and would I like a ride into the city. She was currently working in sexual health and reproduction in Bhutan but had a home base here. I did have a moment, as I wandered with her to the car park, where I thought, I could be going for a drive with an axe murderer or trained assassin. She did have a slight look of Angelina Jolie. But then, what a fantastically interesting axe murderer or assassin who is stunning, tall, with the most wonderful Irish accent, and weaves on planes. She gave me the tourist guide into Prague and I am here today, so if she was an axe murderer or trained assassin, I was not on her list.

I wandered back to the hotel to charge my phone which was nearly flat and have now strolled down from the hotel to a local burger bar. Have just stuffed myself full of, arguably, the best hamburger I have ever eaten. The Joy Burger Bar is now on my list of great eateries. It seems a little odd to be raving about a hamburger, cause I am sure Cinderella never munched through a burger in her fairytale life, but then, looking down, I can’t see any glass slippers, just very dusty Nikes.

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The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree

IMG_2665Oh Cambridge is just so beautiful. Every time I visit I goo and gah more. Arrived into Cambridge on the train from King’s Cross and caught a cab past the ‘backs’ to Churchill College. The site of one of the most photographed places in the world never ceases to illicit a gasp, as the cab speeds past Kings College. Churchill is one of the newer colleges and whilst not grand, in the Mr Potter sense of the world, it is still beautiful with lovely gardens and such lovely staff. The men in the Porters Lodge can’t do enough for you and I was quickly sent off to my super comfortable room overlooking the garden. Whilst it is ‘student digs’ the room was lovely, with lots of light and a huge space. My bed was incredibly comfortable and probably slept the best there since I have been away. It might have helped that after I arrived I caught up with some old friends and wandered down to the Eagle – I seriously don’t know how people can put away so many pints .. I was on my ear after a pint of cider. The Eagle is famous for its RAF bar, with graffiti from world war 2 airmen all over the ceiling and it continues to attract  ex service men who hear the accent and then very loudly ask you how the cricket is going.

I was incredibly busy at the conference, but can’t complain, as I am here for work. The problem is always that you end up working two days in one as you finish your UK day and then Australia is awake and have to deal with the hundreds of emails. Ran workshops, presented, chaired and all of the usual stuff.

I had one free bit so wandered down Storey’s Way and into Madingley to the historical heart of Cambridge. It was still pretty quiet as students not back for a couple of weeks. I wonder if they have any idea how privileged they are to study in such a totally idyllic spot. I went and grabbed a sandwich and headed to St Johns. One of my favourite spots is sitting in the kirkyard right opposite Newton’s tree.

We had the conference dinner last night at Homerton College and that was seriously flying owls and waving wands.

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Lovely gardens and then the gong for dinner and the request to follow the garden path, past liveried young people, all lined up in the Great Hall. Had a lovely dinner amidst the paintings, timber and candles. I have been to a number of Cambridge conferences before and can never quite reconcile the disco in Hogwart Halls. Climbed on to the earliest bus back to the quiet of Churchill.

I left Cambridge after running a workshop this morning. I am totally enjoying the train trip. I figured out it was much quicker to just catch the longer train from St Pancras to Gatwick rather than cross London in a cab to Victoria. I did that trip the other day and it took me 45 minutes (and almost as many pounds). The ThamesLink train is great. I am seeing so much out the windows. We just had a few minutes stop at Blackfriars and the view of the Tower Bridge in the bright sunshine was stunning. Yes, the weather has improved and the whole country is bathed in the most glorious sunshine. I really do love train travel and think it is the most totally wonderful way to get anywhere (apart from my bike).

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The Birds

Well woke up early to the sound of seagulls and car engines. I was craving the Tudors and had missed the BP prize on my wet transit through London. A hasty climb up the hill and 50 minutes later I am alighting at London Victoria. I had a lovely Sunday morning walk through Covent Garden, Notting Hill and then to the National Portrait Gallery. As always the BP was totally fantastic. There were quite a few people wandering but still managed to have a good look at the wonderful portraits – oh the talent of artists from all over the world. There were a couple of Aussie portraits, including a stunning one of Robert Hoge.

I tubed it to the V&A and had a lovely time slumming it in South Kensington. The sensory assault was settling with the gorgeous Arts and Craft furniture, mid century Danish and great clothes. I don’t know anyone that would fit into those 1700 gowns, and I remain totally intrigued by the tiny shoes and oh so petite gloves. Honestly, even the skinny people I know wouldn’t even get a leg in. Well of course on that note, I had to go in search of proper English tea, so thoroughly enjoyed my cucumber sandwiches, cream scones and champagne.

As I arrived back into Brighton, I was back into the crazy psychedelic sensory experience. This time, millions of seagulls, swarming over the pier in the dusty light. The whole of the Village People were now at the pub, in full Village People regale. Swarming Hitchcock birds, high camp, and fairy floss, gorgeous Harajuku wearing young Japanese girls – how on earth am I going to cope with a visit to platform 9 and ¾, the Hogwarts express, Churchill College and a sedate healthcare conference in Cambridge?

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