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Queen of tattoos

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Well after a couple of days of boys in full cowboy gear (well sort of; chaps, but they forgot their pants) and women of a certain age (mine) with the most amazing tattoos I feel very boringly sedate. I have had a lovely couple of days in Brighton, but in hindsight, the assault on the senses probably meant I should have stayed one day less. The B&B where I am staying is lovely and in a great location.

www.whitehousebrighton.com

A wander down the street to the seaside, and up the street toward the totally fantastic North Laines. I set off in the morning toward the Brighton Marina but only walked two steps beyond the double glazed windows, and was hit by the roar. Ken would have been in his element. Wall to wall Ducatis and racing cars of all shapes, ages and sizes. I thought about the last time I found myself in the middle of a car race, but that was the Miglia in Verona with scarf wearing movie star types. This time, not quite so glamourous. More beer swilling, cave men, with bushy beards and top to toe leather. It was slightly surreal though, as these cars and bikes were roaring along the foreshore for the National time trials right beside the outside movie screen. I must admit I did find myself singing ‘grease lightning’ complete with hand gestures as I wandered along with Grease playing in the background. Lucky no one knows me here eh? Maxine, it was sort of like Christmas karaoke. By the time it got to ‘Sandra Dee’ I thought, I gotta get out of here.

Headed toward Rottingdean, as I heard there was a hidden walk along the white cliffs on the sea wall. Well I marched off with Olivia ringing in my ears in search of the Kipling gardens. It was gorgeous. 30km later, according to my Apple watch, I had done Kipling and had a fantastic wander through small village streets where I expected the Vicar of Dibley to accost me. Back through the North Laines through wild sex shops, tattoo parlours and shops selling Wedgewood china, and very British homewares (can I fit a cool daschund clock in my case? – although from stories of the shoe eating daxie monster at home, Tom might not be impressed with another one).

The graffiti were fantastic and I found myself stopping beside Harajuku young Japanese girls staring up at Brighton’s priceless ‘New Masters’. Was I homesick. Don’t think so. But found myself at Bills for dinner. Great food in an old mechanics shed. A bit different to sedate Sydney. There was a large table of gals all dressed in 50s gear on a hen’s night (they seem to be big here), so had a lovely evening of people watching. My walk back through the Lanes was lovely but then I hit the beach again. Shakespeare in Love, it looked like on the big screen, which would fit with my book on Henry’s last wife, but can’t seem to reconcile the scantily clad boys and rainbow signs, and the mountain men on their bikes roaring along the road. Maybe I need to get a tattoo. What do you think Lyd?

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A ‘trip’ of a day

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Holed up in the turret of a fantastic Georgian seaside abode. The tiniest room, but the flamingo wallpaper gives a pretty good hint as to what is outside. Being a sort of ‘feel at home in Mayfair’ sort of girl I got off the train and thought OMG I should have gone to Edinburgh. BUT after I got over the ‘where in hell am I’, and ‘this place is totally mental’ feeling I am having the maddest time. It is fantastic. John Nash’s folly of a seaside shack for the Prince Regent would arguably be the most fantastic building I have ever been in. From the outside, I was expecting a slightly grungy, pseudo Indian, dusty shell of a place, but oh my god. I just kept saying that over and over again as I walked through every room. Maybe exotic, fanciful, whimsical, eccentric and over the top, but I walked around with my mouth open muttering OMG the whole way. Words cannot describe it (and damn I wasn’t allowed to take photos). If you haven’t been here it is worth flying half way around the world just to see. Musty, conservative old palaces are just blown out of the water by this mental oriental, Indian odyssean extravaganza. Every room made me OMG even more. I don’t think I will ever recover from the site of the Banqueting Hall, with its 10 metre chandelier, where the gilded fronds of palm leaves, and the enormous silvered dragon claws hold on to the six smaller dragons as they puff their fire through lotus glass shades. The opulence of dark crimson, red, gold and royal blue, complete with bamboo staircases, and amazing paintings, and completely over the top oriental stuff was just jaw dropping. The extravagance of the lotus chandeliers and the flying dragons in the music room really made me wonder why I had not, in the past, taken more notice of this mental masterpiece. I am totally excited as I have a two-day pass so can’t wait to go back today.

http://brightonmuseums.org.uk/royalpavilion/

I went from the sensory overload of George’s beach shack to the fantastic vintage retro of the Brighton Museum. The cool furniture brought back great memories of Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s gorgeous domestic creation in the Glaswegian vicinity.  I am sure every sense was shattered after I left, as I walked around for the rest of the afternoon with the worst non headache migraine I have ever had. Seriously bad, but I just couldn’t drag myself back to lay on the bed. I wandered the Laines, with more sensory onslaughts, and eventually slumped into the reassuring boringness of Starbucks. Seriously, I needed to hide somewhere slightly familiar. To Jamie’s, for great gnocchi and the best Mojito, and then a stagger back along the mental Brighton Pier. Honestly, I ended up wondering whether the mushrooms I had at breakfast had created my hallucinogenic day.  Well guess what, I am sitting here drinking buckets of good Yorkshire tea preparing myself for another total mental onslaught of a day – I could skip the mushrooms – but why would you – I am seriously excited about re-joining the psychedelic madness that is Brighton – but I definitely need more tea to brace myself – I don’t think a weekend will ever be the same again!

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Home of the Magna Carta

The trip to Lincoln was pretty good. A train from Kings Cross, via Newark Gate, a change, and then to the beautiful cathedral city of Lincoln. Walking through the arch of the remnants of the Roman town of Lindum Colonia. Newport arch is a 3rd century Roman gate, and as you enter, it really feels like stepping back in time. I was trying to picture the marauding Vikings, but any thought of Viking raids was quickly replaced with the view of William the 1st Lincoln Castle and the amazing cathedral. The Minster traces back to 1092, and has important links to the Magna Carta. You do get a sense that Lincoln was once one of the UKs wealthiest towns, with its Harry Potter Streets and the steep hill to the Bailgate.

I had a lovely time with Jan and was treated like the Queen at BG University. It was really busy, and I did feel slightly weary when I fell onto the train headed to London and then the sea.

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Henry’s house

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As I have never been to Hampton Court I felt like I was off on an adventure, albeit a rather wet and soggy one. I had watched a great program on Netflix about Hampton Court and the many happenings of Henry so was determined to visit on this trip. Slightly vague about how to get there, but Rome to Rio (thanks Virginia) told me to go to Waterloo. Not terribly clear from there, but currently on the train to Surbiton. I think I read that you could change trains there to Hampton Court, but I could have totally made that up, so who knows where I could end up.

I am on a proper, above ground train but my tube travel pass made the gates open so I hope I am not going to get arrested by the South West Rail police. The train is empty apart from a few dodgy looking male characters headed who knows where. They don’t look like the types to be visiting Henry’s House so hope I am on the right train. They have just announced the next station so will jump off and see what happens.

There are dodgy flats everywhere, but they don’t look like they were standing in Henry’s ‘off with your head’ era, but the sign says Hampton Court so hopefully headed in the right direction. Grey headed old ladies with pearls (I wonder whether someone is including commentary on their blog about grey haired, confused old lady without pearls, with terrible Aussie accent headed to Hampton Court), and Chinese young people with big cameras wearing ‘I climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge’ t-shirts on this train so I could be ok. Followed all of the Chinese tourists over the bridge to the opulence of Hampton Court.

Well Henry might have had a thing for cutting people’s heads off but the old boy did rather like to live in style. I had a great day at HC, walking the miles and miles of corridors. It was seriously enormous. Sparsely furnished, but honestly, you could just move in today. The house work might be a bit much, but if you weren’t feeling particularly social you could wander the corridors for a week and never see anyone. There were millions of chimneys and apparently the sanitation was very good – probably reassuring that you will be warm and have a decent loo to go to prior to being beheaded. I loved the history and had a fascinating time listening through the audio guide as I wandered all day. The gardens were spectacular and reminded me a bit of the French chateaus we had seen in the Loire Valley. There was a fantastic Good Food festival on in the garden. I wandered a bit, but the mud (after buckets of rain) was terrible. I really needed my Wellington boots (I would have fitted right in but I am not 30, don’t have a blonde bob, pearls, a liberty shirt, a pram that costs more than a small car, and a child called Charles or Henry – the country set were out in force !).

After 35km of walking (according to my Apple watch) I called it a day .. The sign along the Thames told me London Bridge was 32 miles but I resisted the walk home. I rather hoped for a Royal carriage, or one of the Rolls parked in the carpark, but alas, it was the South West Rail for me.IMG_2454 IMG_2469

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September 4, 2015 · 7:20 pm

Euston Road

Great flight over courtesy of a lovely flat bed from QANTAS. The first leg was in economy, but all ok, as sat in front of the babies basket with heaps of leg room. Got to cluck over someone else’s grand baby. Baby Zara was just perfect and slept and laughed the whole way to Dubai. Easy two hour stopover in Dubai. It was over 40 outside and you could feel the heat radiating through the windows, but a shower, and change of boarding pass, to the top and pointy end, was fantastic. Sat beside a lovely pilot, had beautiful lunch, some champagne and slept soundly until arrival into Heathrow. Was a good time to arrive as through security super quick, Heathrow Express and then a cab to the really comfortable St Pancras Premier Inn.

I love the Premier Inns. They might all look the same, and are a budget chain, but they are amazingly clean, great beds and so quiet. They offer a guaranteed good night sleep and have a million pillows to choose from so very happy here.
London was grey and overcast but tshirt weather and dry so headed out for a three hour walk. It was just lovely. I walked down from Euston Road through Bloomsbury and Mayfair to Green Park. Being Sunday it was pretty quiet, and I poked around in gorgeous Swedish and Danish furniture shops on the way (I don’t think I can justify a shipping container but seriously tempted.)
The walk through the park was lovely and then to Lizzie’s house and then on to Hyde Park. I had coffee when visiting Nelson, and the lions were still in place, with little kids climbing all over them. I had a great wander through the seriously cool Covent Garden market. The balloons are from there and then through Covent Garden, where the lads were all out with a wee pint. 18 kms later I staggered home to a pint of Magners and fish and chips and tumbled into bed at 8pm. Of course was wide awake at 1, 3 and 5. Dialled into a teleconference at home, and now sitting at the British Library drinking coffee ( really need to find some Aussie baristas .. There are lots here cause the coffee is seriously bad) but being surrounded by original Beatle music etc is pretty cool. It rained early this morning but grey and dry at the moment. It is a Bank holiday here and the BBC Good Food festival is on at Henry’s house at Hampton Court so headed there with my brolly. It is great having Kings Cross over the road, as super quick to Waterloo. Excited to be back in London .. Honestly I could sit here for a week people watching. Already this morning there has been amazing hairstyles, seriously cool clothes, whoops I spoke too soon. Now pouring outside , but the group of young lads with towels on their heads have just walked past, so even in rain, highly entertaining. Well at least I have been here lots of times and know that you have to pack for every weather in one day. It looks like it might be Henry then the mummies.

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Dali in Dubrovnik

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Just had the most fantastic time in Croatia. The conference went exceptionally well, with lots of great discussion. Met some really lovely people. Had dinner with a group of incredibly interesting and just plain nice GPs – a husband and wife from Slovenia and a couple of young docs from Japan. It seems ‘women rule’ in Slovenia (a quote from the delightful female GP who was about my age) and it was very clear who was the boss in their relationship. She told me in Slovenia, women are given huge respect and men ‘do what they are told with no complaint’ – sounds good to me. I think our lovely male Japanese dinner guests were a bit taken aback but I am sure that if I lived closer to Slovenia we would be great friends.

I hadn’t expected the food in Croatia to be very good but it was absolutely fantastic. I don’t think I have ever eaten such consistently great food anywhere that I have travelled.

On our last afternoon, I went into old Dubrovnik (quickly – straight before our flight) as there was a very large Dali exhibition in a small gallery. It was fantastic. I really enjoyed wandering around the gallery looking at the amazingly intricate (if sometimes confronting) Dali paintings. As I left the gallery, a cruise ship had come into port. OHHHH it was mental – thousands of people pouring out of buses. Made me very pleased that we stayed on the beautiful bay where we did, and had avoided the cruise ship crowds. Carol made me laugh when she said the cruise ships reminded her of live sheep export vehicles.

The flight from Dubrovnik to Roma was so easy and incredibly comfortable. I was slightly anxious beforehand as we were flying on a dash 8 – propellers and all, but it was fantastic – left exactly on time and arrived exactly on time and much better service than QANTAS et. al. No hesitation anytime about flying Croatian airlines

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Kings Landing

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I have been so lucky and have slept in the most wonderful hotels but the gorgeous Valamar President is amongst the most beautiful.

http://www.valamar.com/en/hotels-dubrovnik/valamar-dubrovnik-president-hotel

The view out my large glass doors of the stunning Babin Kuk peninsula is like the most exquisite postcard. My room has a lovely deck off it with banana lounges that look straight over the turquoise sea. My canopied bed is lovely with the furniture so elegantly comfortable.

We arrived at the hotel and were met at the door with a glass of Prosecco before a walk downstairs to our rooms. The hotel lobby is at ground level, with all other rooms terraced down toward the sea. Every room has the most incredible view. Breakfast this morning was incredible.

We caught the bus to Old Dubrovnik this morning – the number 6 bus only taking about 10 minutes.

The late medieval UNESCO walled city is stunningly beautiful and we had a great long walk and climb around the walls. A 50-minute boat trip enabled us to see King’s Landing from the sea. I was of course expecting to see Tyrion Lannister or Brienne of Tarth and the view of the great walls had me searching the sea for Stannis Baratheon. The town was reasonably quiet with the Croatian sun beating town so it was truly gorgeous to sit at a bar cut deep into the cliff and stare out at the stunning scenery. We had totally wonderful calamari sitting on the waters edge and I am now back with my feet up having a rest before the conference opening this evening.

I think the photos speak for themselves – the sea though, is even bluer!

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Gondolas in Venice

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Well probably the first time I can ever say that I was kept awake by a serenade, but when you have the gondolas out the window I guess that is to be expected. Striped shirt wearing, straw hatted gondoliers rowing snuggling tourists down the sedate canal outside our window was a lovely sight. It was even lovelier with the serenading that happened every now and then. We were in a great spot between San Marco and Rialto and wandered between water bus stops. Virginia was with me and we visited the lovely Mr Cremoroni for Venice’s most gorgeous  cuisine. It was busier than Christmas but not terrible. Our trip to Murano was lovely but the sun deceptively strong. I will definitely come back with a suntan after getting a very burnished face. Our quick trip to the home of Guiletta was a lovely spot to while away a late afternoon. Our night trip back to Venice was quick, but our leisurely water bus through Venice’s deserted streets was beautiful in the dark. Virginia had a 10.30pm meeting by video from the US so we missed dinner. We had a highly balanced dinner of biscuits, Brie, Vegemite (that Virginia always travels with) and chocolate.
I am once again at 35000 feet but beneath me at this time the beautiful Croatian coast. Long fingers of land and scattered islands everywhere. There is music box music playing over the speakers of the plane which evokes images of ballerinas twirling but out the window rugged coastlines, terracotta seaside villages, camel colored mountains, the bluest water I have ever seen, but snow covered mountains in the distance. The hills are amazing – great soaring hills as we land with mountains on every side – our super short flight almost at an end but there it is straight out the window – Kings Landing – how exciting

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Farewell Hebe

Currently on another plane to the magic of Venice. The weather in the UK was glorious .. In fact, at times, a bit too hot for an Aussie who came prepared for the British cold with boots and coats – definitely no gloves and hats needed. Gorgeous day for flying. Strictly T-shirts only.
The last few days have been spent in sadness about the loss of my gorgeous Hebe girl. I am obviously totally heart broken, but in some ways, I am glad I am here. It would have been just too hard to say goodbye in person. She might have been the pup, who fitted in a hot dog roll as a baby,  but she grew to be the most gracious old lady. She has been such a part of our life it is like losing one of my children. I don’t think I have ever felt prouder of my kids who have treated her with such dignity. Juno is being well looked after by doting human siblings.
In spite of my incredible sadness, I did have a lovely time in England … Just a little more subdued after Hebes death.
My trip to Cambridge was lovely as always, with great meetings with Jill and her team of truly inspirational women. The lovely village of Cottenham is filled with thatched roof houses and only a very short drive to Pip and Tonys at Landbeach. Anna collected me at Waterbeach station and after our meetings, Jill dropped me at Pip and Tony’s. It was so lovely to see them. They now have four grandbabies so are even more busy than usual. It was so lovely to sit in their conservatory with the doves cooing and drink a bucket of my favourite Yorkshire tea. They had more baby tortoises and the lush green of their English garden was a lovely reprieve from the grime of  travelling.
Yesterday had another early start to Sheffield. A good trip up though with breakfast served at my seat on the train, wifi and beautiful English scenery out the window. I don’t think I have been to Sheffield before and had it in my head it would be an ugly industrial city. I was pleasantly surprised. I was so busy looking at the grand Northern England stone architecture that I love, and following the map on my iPad, that I wasn’t as careful as I should have been on the cobblestones. Took a sprawling, old lady, break your hip tumble and went down really hard, breaking my finger and my iPad. The iPad was quickly repaired but my finger had doubled in size and was rather sore.
Great meetings with Sian and Sarah that were incredibly helpful to my role, and then a wander, and back for the two hour trip to London.
The unseasonably hot Spring has happened ahead of the heating being turned off so the train was stifling. By the time I got to London I felt really sick, dizzy as anything and had had enough. Trying to get the Tube to Heathrow at 6pm on a Friday night was more than I could cope with, as I couldn’t carry my suitcase. You wouldn’t think a single finger would be so damn inconvenient. I had planned to eat dinner at the Tate but canceled my booking and courtesy of a lovely female cabbie was on my way to Heathrow. The Hilton, a few minutes from terminal 5, was an amazing oasis. Just so comfortable. I am so pleased I stayed there after I read about their project Search. The hotel has a large employment program for young people from Ealing with disabilities.
I have been incredibly spoilt with another business upgrade, this time courtesy of British Airways. Not really needed on a short channel hop but nice of them anyway. Bit surreal isn’t it, that I have been on the plane for such a short time but now have Luxembourg out the window. I can see Brussels on the map, and funny to think Virginia is somewhere in the air just near me, as she is coming from Brussels, and we arrive at the same time. I will see Virginia soon but those damn Chagall’s continue to elude me. They were in Brussels with Virginia, but more comforting this time,  as the Tate did at least know where theirs were! The Italian alps are snow covered out the window but soon it will be the magic of Venice!

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Sliding with Francis

What is it about my children and the Pope questions? After a wonderful day at Musei Vaticani Lyds was wondering whether the Pope slides around in his socks once the doors close. She figured, because she thinks it would be exceptionally cool to put your socks on and slide along the passages of the Vatican past the world’s most amazing collection of irreplaceable art, that Frances would do the same. Not sure Lyds. Of course the light on in his bedroom window when we went back to see the nativity in the dark meant that he was lying in bed reading a trashy novel. We went back to the hotel after our museum expedition and then headed out to Spagna and a spot of people watching. There were stacks of people around, but it was Saturday night. We wandered up through Piazza Popollo and then across the river to a much more residential street for a nice dinner of very traditional pizza. We walked right along the river, past Hadrian’s mausoleum, which looked gorgeous in the dark. The walk up to St Peter’s was lovely. It was a gorgeous night and the Christmas tree and nativity were beautiful. Whilst the Trevi fountain is empty, and mainly covered in scaffolding, there was a small spot to throw a coin – I need to ensure that I return. Hadrian for Tom and of course the Chagalls for me.

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