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Our stay in Paris was lovely. In the daytime the sun was shining and in the evening the lights in the trees along the Champs Elysee meant that Paris twinkled. Of course, we walked miles and miles. The Hotel WO was tiny but very comfortable. We were located just off Rue Du Roma quite close to the Saint Lazare railway station. The walk to Boulevard Haussmann and the Galleries Lafayette was only a few minutes and it took about half an hour to walk to Musee Du Louvre and the Eiffel Tower. 2015 was welcomed with thousands of people watching a light show off the Arc De Triomphe and then fantastic fireworks. The girls were funny – exceptionally excited taking selfies in front of Mona. The Eiffel tower was so crowded. I far preferred the lovely view from the rooftop of Paris’s most elegant department store. Well to walk miles and miles ordinarily should make one fitter – I am not sure though whether the rather large mille feuille cancels out the exercise – surely not? 

In the home of James the 5^th they were setting up the millions of fireworks that would signal Hogmanay. It really was so damn bleak amongst the cold Scottish stone, the wind and cobblestones of Stirling castle. Our Scottish guide regaled us with stories of Mary Queen of Scots; Queen at 6 days old. The stories of regents, murdered husbands, married cousins, imprisonment at Loch Leven, abdications for one year old sons, and execution by one’s loving cousin was made all the more colourful by the winds and the darkness of a good Scottish winter.

Lang may yer lum reek!

http://www.grogandgruel.co.uk 

We arrived back into Fort William in the deepest dark and headed for the dubiously named Grog and Gruel. The great food at Huntingtower Lodge made us think that Chris’s recommendation should be OK. The cobbled streets of Fort William led us to the old pub. Upstairs there were lots of kids and heaps of noise from what seemed like locals so we thought our recommendation might be OK. In the tradition of cream with scotch I took the recommendation of the Scotsman behind the bar who told me that my cider should have the addition of a wee dram. I was slightly skeptical but it was fantastic. I think my cider in future will have the addition of a good slug of whisky although I did wonder about the alcohol content as I staggered down the stairs. The food was so good but the real highlight, my newly found favourite, curly chips washed down with a great Highland modified cider!

After a lovely breakfast in the gorgeous B&B owned by Chris and Jackie we headed the passat toward Skye. It was only just getting light at 9am as we drove toward Kyle of Locharsh and the Skye bridge. We stopped at the lovely Eilean Donan castle that looked very beautiful in the mist and justified its use as the quintessential Scottish castle on every box of shortbread.

Of course Scott was complaining about my driving so he took over as we headed to the Isle of the mist.

With the heirs to the lands of Dunvegan on board, we of course had to visit their ancestral home. Scott donned the clan tartan wrapped tightly around his neck as we drove across the top of the world. Whilst the Island might be named Skye, the sky does indeed feel very close and climbing on the tiny narrow roads up the side of wet and misty massive mountains made one feel very pleased to have solid german engineering beneath the bonnet. The millions of woolly sheep that are such a feature of the Hebridean island were obviously rugged up somewhere warm as very few hardy souls were out on the windswept hills. We stopped for a very welcome Scottish hot chocolate and cranberry scones and cream, all infused with warming good Scotch. I don’t think scones will ever taste the same again unless I tip a good dram of Whisky in as I whip the cream.

It was lovely to return to beautiful Huntingtower Lodge on the shores of Loch Linhe. We had great plans to head out to dinner but the dementor’s had destroyed our appetites and after a lovely pot of tea and gingerbread we fell into our beds. I have no idea how I would manage to live in the UK at this time of year. I would get nothing done, as by 6pm it feels like midnight cause it is so damn dark. By 7pm you fall into a cold and dark induced slumber. The fact that it doesn’t get light until 8.30am makes one feel slightly like a bear with plans to simply hibernate with a good book for the entire winter. The only problem is though that the good intentions of reading are destroyed the minute I pull the snuggly doona up and pass out in about 2 minutes flat.

Well my ballerina daughter has been inspired by the Scottish Highlands, not to do a Highland jig, but to thump around like Shrek doing ballet in our attic room. We had a lovely time in Edinburgh in the tartan carpeted, gorgeous Howard hotel with very nice butlers making pots of proper tea. Edinburgh was glistening with the sun shining brightly. The kids went underground to visit the Close’s of the plague era and I went to pick up the car. A lovely walk along the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood in the Scottish sunshine (yes really) was gorgeous.

I parked the car in the back of the Howard and when it came time to get it out I remembered the non forgiving Scottish stone and the nerve inducing maneuver’s that are needed when the car park fills up and blocks ones rather long car in amongst the Scottish stone.

The drive up over Glencoe was done in the moonlight (even if it was only 4pm), with the massive Scottish peaks covered in snow. We did wonder how the Highlanders managed to have such ferocious battles when it would be too damn cold to take your hands out of your pockets to yield your broadsword.

The drive through the great glen was lovely but a bit too winding for one occupant so a stop was in order. Snow covered fields, swirling mist, massive Scottish Highland mountains and a weird sort of moon made Lydia convinced that the dementor’s were coming to get us. She made us all think happy thoughts whilst she summoned up her best Expecto Patronum spell. Yes it is a laugh a minute travelling with a ballet dancing, wizard who can summon patronus spells with a wave of her mobile phone.

A slight panic with Kings Cross closed as repairs had gone over time. We weren’t sure whether we would get to Edinburgh on the train as planned. All trains were cancelled and the news was telling us trains to the north would be unlikely to run – hmmm I guess I can drive up if I have to but the snow in the north on the TV makes me slightly anxious. It is dark here by 4pm so the thought of snow and the darkest dark is not a drive I would relish. We start yawning at 4pm as it really does seem like 10pm at night. We had a lovely Sunday morning. Our hotel is quite close to Old Spitalfields market so we walked via Petticoat Lane in search of Sunday morning breakfast. After a great breakfast in true British style we wandered around the lovely market before the short walk along London Wall back to the hotel. Twitter is useful for train updates and the East Coast line via York, to Edinburgh was up and running – quite a relief that the long drive north would be done in the comfort of the London to Edinburgh train. We are getting used to the rug up and I have never thought of winter as so stylish, but I am so enjoying people watching – the Eastern European women on the train in their fur coats and hats and the women at Kings Cross looking like something from the 1920s. Out the train window are the green fields of Yorkshire covered in snow. It is 3.40pm and so pretty with the sun setting, casting gorgeous light across the snowy fields. The low stone walls are covered in snow – I am sure it will seem like midnight when we arrive into Scotland but for now Red Leceister and Caramelised Onion British crisps and Gone Girl will entertain me I am sure. Hmmm spoke too soon – the train in front of us has broken down – two hours sitting amongst snow covered fields – thanks to National Rail a free trip to Edinburgh.

The snow out the window is beautiful as we train it across England towards Scotland. The flight over was really easy thanks to being so damn tired and sleeping for about 16 hours. Arriving into London it was a chilly 2 degrees but twinkling with the Christmas lights. We stayed in a really comfortable hotel near the London Wall. It was a few minutes to Liverpool Street Station so getting around London was really easy. We walked for miles after arriving; down along the Thames, past the Tate and to Big Ben. We fell into bed totally exhausted before 8pm.

After sleeping solidly from 8pm I was awake at 3am. I snuck up so I wouldn’t wake Lyd and decided I would read in the bathroom. Was quite pleasant sitting on the heated floor. Craving a cup of tea I grabbed the rail to climb up cause my feet had gone to sleep. Well I thought the rail was attached but it was a drop down rail so after banging myself on the head, seeing stars and swearing loudly I decided Lyd had slept long enough.

Our hotel was in London’s financial district so incredibly quiet. We spent a great day walking 35,000 steps around London. The changing of the guard at Buck Palace was quite different to the summer with the guards swaddled in huge grey overcoats. The Christmas market in Hyde Park was full of roasted chestnuts, woodcarving and mulled wine. We walked through the park and down through Kensington and a stroll through Harrod’s.

We staggered back to the hotel with our fitbits telling us we had walked almost 30km. A short sleep, and then rugged up in coats, gloves, hats and scarves we caught the tube to Waterloo to the gorgeous Christmas market on Southbank. Sitting just beneath the London Eye all lit up in blue, the trees twinkling with thousands of fairy lights, Mariah and Buble crooning everywhere we walk, and the freezing cold being warded off with mulled cider in the cedar chalet – it definitely feels like Christmas.

Another lovely Hawaiian day. We have been told that the weather here is the same all year round and only varies by a couple of degrees between summer and winter. It rains every day. Torrential tropical rain that only lasts for a few minutes and then the sun comes out. It was pouring when I stuck my head out this morning so a swim in the rain was called for. The pool is lovely but the hot tub is damn hot. The sun is now shining and the waves are slightly tamer than yesterday. The massive sets rolling in before the reef were like a washing machine. Obviously our friends the turtles had the same idea as us … going out past the buoys was not a good idea. I had a snorkel on and just a few steps from shore there were two enormous turtles – the biggest ones I have ever seen. I was floating on top of them and was intrigued, as they were only a metre or so below me. All of a sudden one came up to the surface, lifted his head out right beside me as much as to say ‘lets have a chat!’ His back was the size of a small table – I think I liked him but his head was a little too reptilian to feel totally comfortable. Having that face only a few inches was both fascinating and hmmm.

We are bracing ourselves for Halloween Hawaiian style. I am not sure whether you wear a witch’s hat with your bathers or whether just bathers are enough – that sight alone is pretty damn scary.

Hard life – now for my breakfast of eggs, local tomatoes, and avocado at the table outside watching the waves crash on to the reef

A few steps to the beach, a few steps into the water, a snorkel and you enter the magical world of a reef. Swimming amongst great schools of angelfish has been fantastic but yesterday was floating around looking at big rocks when one moved. A lift of the head, flippers going and I took a great big swallow of sea water. One fantastic big turtle – but scared the crap out of me!