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The Thelmas and Louise

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Our view out our door

What happens when three women take to the roads of Oahu. Whilst Turtle Bay is a gorgeous resort, around us is really rural Hawaii. The native creatures are all suntanned, bleached haired surfer types with boards out the back or on top of huge monster trucks. We have a great small Ford Focus that is easy to drive – well it should be! Between us we have managed to have major spatial difficulties figuring out how not to hit the curb (yes kids the Death Mobile revisited), have driven down the wrong side of the road, driven down a bike path, gone through a red light and generally been total hoons. But, we are in Hawaii so no-one seems to mind much. We went up yesterday to watch the World Triple Crown surfing competition, that is on at the moment, just a couple of bays around. The waves were at least 20 foot and they all made it look so easy. To our right we had the world champions and to our left scruffy kids that were just fantastic. Carol had to head home this morning so I drove her to the airport at 5am. I think we kidded ourselves that there would be no traffic. It was bumper to bumper the whole way. Driving back myself was pretty awesome. The sun was coming up and the boys were out on their boards. The sunrise was not quite as stunning as the sunset but in this little part of paradise all seems right in the world. The only intrusion is the army helicopters that occasionally sweep over the coast, but even they seem pretty cool amidst the backdrop of enormous surf and swaying palm trees.

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Turtle Bay

Well from Canadian bears to turtles, very weird ferret looking creatures and stunning fish. We are in one of the most beautiful tropical ‘do nothing’ spots I have ever been in.

Turtle Bay is on the North Shore of Oahu and is a magical place of palm trees, tropical gardens and huge surf. We are in a lovely three bedroom apartment that sits right on the ocean. Out the back are beautiful gardens and a wonderful beach with oh so white sand and a gorgeous swimming spot. Out the front is the wilder surf beach. The Ocean Villas that we are staying in are exceptionally comfortable five star apartments that are so well equipped. Three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a lovely outdoor area, a pool, hot tub and everything in between.

The beach is almost at our door and definitely looks like something out of a Hawaiian movie. I have been driving my poor colleagues mad singing beach boys songs. A few hundred metres away is the hotel. There are a couple of lovely beach side restaurants between us and the hotel so it is so easy to stroll down and sit and while away the time sipping on a pina colada.

The sunset here is amazing – I really haven’t ever seen anything like it. It is nice to be away from the touristy Waikiki beach – all of the tourists there don’t know what they are missing a mere 50 minutes or so at the other end of the Island.

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Aloha

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Aloha! From beautiful BC to the tropics via a super efficient Westjet flight with the best service that I think I have ever experienced on a plane. Our somewhat crazy senior flight attendant was a crack up telling the whole flight that we were headed to Yellow Knife in the Yukon instead of Hawaii cause the pilot had changed his mind. Probably not a great joke if we were on a certain other airline but the filled plane took it all in with clapping when we were all told that we had a 100 year old woman headed to Hawaii to celebrate her birthday. Our flight attendant at 35000 feet reminded the full plane that if they weren’t happy with the service there were eight exits – he was hilarious. Palm trees, sun and scantily clad people of all shapes and sizes – welcome to Oahu !!

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Mothers and ‘babies’

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The conference was great but had a quiet afternoon so decided to go whale watching. I could have gone out on the large boat but decided to brave the Zodiac, as something memorable, on what for me was a slightly surreal day. I noticed a missed call from my Head of School and I thought .. hmm what is wrong. Checked my emails thinking she would email me if something terrible had happened. Well there was an email, but it was from the Vice Chancellor congratulating me on my promotion to Professor.

So I dressed in the funny red suit, looking like the Michelin Tyre Man. Looking around my fellow whale watches we all looked the same and really we were off to see some of the largest creatures in the world so rather fitting we looked the same. There were twelve of us, on what at first seemed like a sedate rubber raft, as we slowly bobbed out of Victoria Harbour. Not for long though, as the boat quickly gained speed and we skimmed across the top of the water surrounded by amazing scenery. Well OMG. I can’t even describe the sight of the massive Humpback mother rising up out of the water with her calf. I can’t even write about it. The only way to describe it was awe inspiring.

We went shopping in the lovely streets of Victoria and the choice of my promotion present was easy. I am now sporting a lovely ring with the great creature carved into it by a talented First Nation artist. Fish pie and a fantastic cider cocktail with Canadian apple cider and limoncello finished what was a truly memorable day.

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Victoria

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We spent Monday in a great meeting at the fantastic campus of the University of British Columbia. UBC is a lovely campus surrounded by water with students of all nationalities studying amongst the stunning surroundings. We wandered down part the world famous Museum of Anthropology. The timber and tall glass fronted building is stunning amongst the trees, water and totem poles. There was a group doing yoga in the main building amongst the First Nation artifacts and all seemed well with the world.

We organized a bus from Vancouver to Victoria via the ferry. The trip again was super easy with the bus driving us on to the ferry so we didn’t need to lug bags. Carol was with me and we thoroughly enjoyed the 90 minute ferry crossing with views of the beautiful Canadian coastline, Washington State and Vancouver Island. We arrived into Victoria quite late and were transferred to the lovely Delta Hotel; super comfortable beds and great views!

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35000 Canadian steps

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On Sunday we set off on an epic walk. Over the bridge to the seriously lovely Granville Island. The Island was once the heart of Industrial Canada but the statement that the only industry here now is serious art, food and a great market was supported by the old painted silos  overlooking the happenings on Granville. We stopped for breakfast on the water and then took off around Stanley Park a bracing 12km stroll around the Vancouver seawall. The colors were unbelievably beautiful with the Fall changing the maple trees to the wonderful shades of orange and red. As we headed toward the park, the quiet streets of Vancouver, with its wonderful waterfront views overlooked by the majestic Rockies, was interrupted by zombies giving us the most fearful stares. The streets were filled with ghosts, ghouls and giggling Asian girls dressed as pumpkins who were collecting the rubbish of the locals who were out to see the Halloween parade. Halloween will happen for us on Wakiki beach but the Vancouver locals were getting started a couple of weeks early. Well we walked and walked and walked. Canadian geese, amazing views, totem poles and 35000 steps later we wandered back to our great hotel and had a wee drink to celebrate why we love Canada.

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My suitcase preferred London

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The flight from Melbourne to Vancouver was super easy thanks to an upgrade with QANTAS. Even without the upgrade it was so easy as I had never seen LA so empty. Got to customs and was the first person in line so a very warm US ‘hello mam’, finger prints and out into the LA sunshine (smog).

Well, things were so straightforward. Picked up my bags and transferred them in the transfer area to wait my Alaskan flight. Hmmm had never flown Alaskan Air before and had visions of Ella dogs pulling the plane out – but it was fantastic. Great service, heaps of leg room and smiling staff.

Arrived into beautiful Vancouver into spectacular sunshine. Woops I think I have made a huge mistake with the case full of clothes – well until I got to the arrivals area and had the endless wait of watching every suitcase go around except my own! It became clear that somewhere between LA and BC my suitcase had been waylaid. Forms complete, into a cab and a drive through what I think is one of the most livable places on Earth. With Vancouver at the top, or near top of all lists, I don’t think I am the only one that could easily just transport my life to the beautiful harbour city.

Jude had recommended the Blue Horizon hotel. I wasn’t sure what to expect but it was fantastic. Right in the centre of Vancouver in Robson Street with super nice staff and great rooms. The views over Vancouver across the city and to the sea were amazing.

Carol and I walked down to Gastown and had great dinner in the Flying Pig restaurant. Gastown is Vancouver’s oldest neighborhood and is full of great shops, cafes and the gaslights that make the streets twinkle at night. Well I am sure they are now electricity but they do add a gorgeous light to the streets. Gastown was named after a Yorkshireman ‘Gassy’ Deighton who opened the first saloon their in 1867. Our saloon for dinner was just lovely. We had to acclimatize  to the over the top service but we were back in the land of serious tipping.

Now about the luggage. Went back to the hotel and got a call to say my bag had gone to London to visit the Queen but was on its way back and should arrive sometime during the night. What the? How does ones bag get from LA to London? I did ask the man on the phone whether my bag would get the frequent flyer points and was told politely in a very serious way ‘Mam only people earn points’ !!!

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The control tower in Milano directing parachutes in Pisa

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Slightly weird flight from Pisa with the airforce dropping parachutes over the airport. Not sure whether they were having a lovely sunny day of parachuting for fun, but a bit entertaining when you think about it being an international airport. Waiting on the tarmac for jumping parachuters, one of the slightly more colorful excuses for a plane leaving late, but after all, this is Italy. The flight attendants are drinking espresso in front of us at the front of the aircraft so we are assuming the airforce  are not being parachuted in for some crisis. But, again, this is Italy, so I think it unlikely that anyone would stop drinking coffee, even if there was a national crisis. The pilot has just told us they are waiting for airport control in Milan. I have this picture in my mind of someone in Milano trying to see all the way to Pisa with their binoculars.
A lovely night last night at a stunning restaurant that I found on trip advisor. Wandered around for quite a while looking for it. Gorgeous young helpful boys of about 15 were determined to help us, but in true Italian style stood in the street arguing about which direction – this included arguing with google maps on their iPhones. Gretch, Alice and niece Zoe, I thought of you all. Oh the Italian boys are so charming.
Anyway, finally found the delightful Ristorante Peperosa .. Owned by two brothers, and no English menus. Our waiter, one of the owners, was incredibly helpful with suggestions. We shared bruschetta pomodora with exquisite tastes of Tuscany, garlic, olive oil and salt. I had sublime ravioli with ricotta, fish and lemon. The extras were gorgeous .. Prosecco when we arrived to say welcome. A small appetiser brought to all tables and when we asked for the bill, instead, a bottle of limoncello and sherry was brought to say arrivederci
We wandered to the field of miracles down lots of lovely lane ways. There were a couple of moments when I looked at my watch and questioned the wisdom of walking through some of the streets at midnight but we passed lots of young girls on bikes and it felt really safe.
The tower and duomo were lovely at midnight. The tourists buses had all gone and it was so very tranquil.
This morning, a lovely Italian stroll for latte macchiato. A sit in the sun with more coffee, ham and pecorino and a very easy 5 minute car trip to the airport. I will definitely return to Pisa
This really is getting quite funny. The plane keeps moving about three metres in different directions – parachuters, Milano ….. Not sure what will be next.

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The five lands of the Cinque Terre

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From Pisa to Monterossa by train in 50 minutes.   A steep, long, sometimes hard, but fantastic climb up, down and across the side of a massive hill, through the postcard villages of the Cinque Terre.  A boat ride to cool down, calamari, prawns and Tuscan wine.
Well I could write pages but I think pictures tell it all

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The birthplace of the Renaissance

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From the beautiful quiet streets of Lucca  to the frenetic and slightly mad cradle of the Renaissance, exquisite Firenze. The greatest change I noticed since last being here was in the leather markets. Almost no Italians; African, the Caribbean and Albanian men, selling mainly reasonable looking fakes. Only a handful of stalls with the official Firenze sign put out as authorised genuine.
Had dinner in my favourite restaurant in Florence. The very charming waiter remembered me and asked after my beautiful daughter. The fungi strudel really is worth flying around the world for.
As always, millions of tourists, millions of tall men driving you mad with everything from ‘genuine’ Prada handbags to spinning tops that light up and fly through the Florentine darkness. The whole spectacle of gathering up their wares and running around the corner when the politzi drive down cobbled streets, and setting up two minutes later, I am sure is done for the tourists.
Millions of gorgeous young Japanese girls, nuns in full habit, puffing English people in their straw hats, loud Americans, gorgeous shops, cobbled streets, exquisitely dressed young men in full uniform, with Renaissance small, gold daggers on  their hips, what looks like priceless art drawn with chalk on the streets; all watched over by the spectacular duomo and the statues of the piazza.

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