Category Archives: US 2013 with Lydia

Mao, Motown and the Mafia

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What is it about the African American gene that makes these dudes so damn cool and such great dancers? You could ride around on the New York subway all day and be totally entertained for a couple of dollars. Between 125th in Harlem and Wall Street we had the gorgeous young man in the cap with the coolest moves and the classiest gold piercings, with Motown blaring from his IPAD, and a lecture on American history and why slavery is still alive and propagated by non-Obama voting descendants of the Deep South.

Off the train, it was apprentice Jordan’s on the basketball courts of Harlem. Yep, the cool dance moves translate to the basketball courts and the gorgeous little tots, with their cornrows and smiling faces all holding on to rings connected by a rope quietly crossing the road like very well behaved ducklings.

Wandered down past the dance clubs of the 20s and I reckon I could hear jazz music and the swinging of skirts. We hopped back on the subway in the depths of Harlem and headed for the Statue of Liberty.

The 46 metre regal lady who has welcomed immigrants since 1886 was still closed as Hurricane Sandy had slightly battered her but we stood on the edge of the water and admired her from afar.

The brass bull, the 3200kg symbol of Wall Street was still standing, despite the state of the economy, and looked slightly perturbed with kids climbing all over him.

I had a moment of hmmm where are we … but then looked up and saw the sturdy face of Mao next to a mafia suited godfather type character and knew we were walking in the right direction. A stroll through Chinatown and Little Italy. I now know why the suited men from Pakistan are selling copy watch, copy handbags in Hong Kong cause all the Chinese are in New York ‘missie missie, copy watch, copy handbag’. I felt like I was in Tsim Sha Tsui.

The train back to Washington was again uneventful. Laura had given us the front door key so we let ourselves into the calm of the Embassy. Our trip to Old Town Alexandria, Virginia was easy on the train. Across the Potomac River, the 1749 Old Town is now filled with great shops and restaurants but there are still signs of the part that it played in the American Civil War.

What does one do just before they leave the US – shop of course. To Pentagon City for serious retail therapy.

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Peanut butter and chocolate milk shakes

Monday May 13

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Well it was Mother’s Day and it was damn good!

We are having a fantastic time in the Big Apple’s glorious sunshine. The hotel that we are staying in is fantastic. We are just below the Empire State Building on 35th and 6th in the Midtown, which is terrific for travel in either direction. The subway is just outside the door and really easy to navigate (although we did get stuck on an express train yesterday and ended up in the Bronx). The very large members of the NYPD had me slightly worried on the platform, but I remembered what Tom told me – people in NY are either wealthy or homeless … I think he may be right, with even the Bronx yuppified.

Lydia took some very cool photos in Times Square but I much prefer the quiet areas of The Villages. We caught the subway to Brooklyn for the obligatory walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. We did have a bit of rain that day but not enough to even get damp. We got off the train in Dumbo (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). It is quite a fascinating historic waterfront area and we recognized a streetscape that we have seen in many movies. They were shooting the next Spiderman movie there that day but we didn’t offer to be extras. Not sure I could really see myself hanging upside down on the Manhattan Bridge.

Apparently, the cardboard box was invented there, but now it seems home to very beautiful things to put in cardboard boxes. Really lovely shops, especially some wonderful looking furniture and lighting ones.

We walked up to Brooklyn Heights and found a great place for breakfast. Fantastic organic café, Siggys, (we were preparing ourselves for the chocolate and peanut butter milkshakes), where we munched our way through beautiful omelets with fresh herbs and goat cheese. As we drank our smoothies, we felt incredibly pious with our oh so healthy choices (hmm can’t quite say that about yesterday). The walk across the Brooklyn Bridge was lovely with views of the Statue of Liberty in the distance.

Lydia hit the shops whilst my head hit the pillow for a nap. We did Macy’s sale – the store is only a few minutes walk away and millions of New Yorkers (probably temporary New Yorker tourists) were collecting armfuls of bargains. I think clothes here are at least half of what we pay at home and we did manage to support the US economy. We keep getting reminded that we need to shop as we walk past massive electronic signs, constantly updating, telling us the size of the US debt. There are so many numbers and they seem to keep going up. Looks like our spending is not making one speck of difference.

Well we danced to Mamma Mia on Broadway and wandered home along Broadway with Lydia shaking her head at her mother singing the Dancing Queen. There are so many colourful characters (and quite a few unwell ones – I have found that a bit upsetting – the number of obviously really mentally unwell young things on the streets) me singing ABBA at the top of my voice seems quite normal (although I keep getting the ‘oh mother’ from my much more refined daughter).

We had a lovely Mother’s Day. Went in search of the supposedly best pancakes in New York. Not sure that the Jewish grandmothers of years past made buttermilk pancakes smothered in maple syrup (if they didn’t they should have) but found the bakery amongst the interesting migrant tenements of the 1940s. On the Lower East Side, the Clinton Street Bakery constantly wins awards for NY city’s best brunch. The queues can be up to 3 hours but we went for a bit of a walk and didn’t have that long to wait. Now, I have eaten at the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world, now I think I can claim to have eaten at the one with the highest calories – but boy was it worth it! The chocolate and peanut butter milkshake was totally yum and we really should have stopped there. But no, Lydia and I managed to do a fair job of polishing off buttermilk pancakes and brioche French toast with banana and pecans. The staff wore t-shirts that said on the back ‘made with love and butter’… We know, we enthusiastically poured our maple syrup butter over everything.

Now before you start to worry that we will come back like whales (highly likely), we did then march across Central Park for four hours. My goodness, that park is so huge. The New York sunshine was out and our stroll, (well waddle for the first two hours with pancakes and brioche swishing around inside us) was just lovely. We both have a bit of a tan (or it could be the maple syrup leaking out our pores).  Some young smooth New Yorker said to Lydia last night, ‘I think you have dropped something’. When she turned he said ‘my heart’. Well it made her smile.

Anyway we traipsed throughout Central Park and sat for a while and were totally entertained by young African American street performers. They are so talented … I love the confidence they exude and their acrobatic skills were fantastic.  They did remind us that they rule, with Obama still in the White House. A bit more shopping, and by that time we were starving (yes hard to believe), so off to Carmines for family sized portions of hearty lasagna. We could have taken ten of our friends and there still would have been enough.

A beautiful morning in NY. Off for a boat ride to Staten Island and then a mosey around Harlem and then I suppose we might by hungry! No Tom .. I think we will bypass the macaroni and cheese ones at Shopsin’s!

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Hebe and Juno’s new home in the West Village

ImageMay 10 2013

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If anyone has a Swiss bank account that they would like to share, please let us know, and then send Hebe and Juno (business class of course) – Lydia and I would like to buy a house in the Village and Hebe and Juno would have lots of friends – Max who was out with his mother was very cute and would make a nice friend for the girls. He is a long-haired daschund but we think the girls could cope because they will be very happy chasing squirrels around their local park.

We had a wonderful walk around out new neighbourhood and found our local coffee shop and where we will buy our bagels once we move in. Washington Square Park is a very nice brunch spot with bagels from Murray’s – Scottish smoked salmon and cream cheese would be very nice for breakfast each day – at least we had protein, and maybe slightly more healthy than bagels with peanut butter and cream cheese (hmmm maybe not!). We don’t mind that our neighbours will be Uma Thurman and Sarah Jessica Parker – we are happy to have them share our neighbourhood as we stroll the gorgeous tree lined and cobbled streets. We don’t mind that the bohemian days of Greenwich Village are gone as Hebe and Juno are far too refined to be bohemian and it is not that far on the subway to MOMA. The brownstones are really lovely and we thought we could sit on the steps of ours aka Carrie Bradshaw. It is hard to believe that the frenetic streets of New York are all around, in such a peaceful and beautiful neighbourhood.

From Greenwich Village we went to the 911 memorial. It was quite emotional to stand staring into the deep holes of the World Trade Centre buildings. The memorial is very beautiful with the single survivor tree surrounded by swamp white oaks. The pools are ringed by the names of the almost 3000 people who lost their lives that day. Seems that it was a bit symbolic being there today as the building reached 1776 feet, with the erection of the 408 foot spire this morning, draped in a US flag.

Our mastery of the New York subway continued with a train ride to MOMA. Well sort of mastery. Standing in front of another ticket machine trying to figure out what our zip code was to be able to buy a train ticket. A few trips back to the window trying to figure out what numbers we had to put in and we were eventually on our way to 11 West 53rd Street with me exceptionally excited, as of course Chagall’s are a feature of their surrealist collection. Frida Kahlo just inside the door, a heap of Picasso’s hanging around and a whole wall of Monet – but seems they think they might have lent the Chagall’s to someone – they are just not sure who might have them or where they might be – I suppose no great cause for concern, in that the last one that came up for sale only fetched about 4 million dollars, but I guess when there are rooms and rooms of Cezanne’s, Picasso’s, Dali’s, Van Gogh’s and Monet’s, a few misplaced is not something to worry about.

Well we are off to Times Square – we don’t expect Friday night in Times Square will be as peaceful as the location of our new home but after a day of upper class gorgeousness, priceless art and beautiful tributes we need a bit of New York glitz!

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Nature’s fury doesn’t care about fuel

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Should one feel slightly anxious when at 30,000 feet the pilot says very calmly ‘there is a major thunderstorm over DC and the airport is closed so we are being put in a holding pattern for about 45 minutes … BUT … we don’t have enough fuel.  Everything is OK though we just need to figure out where we can land’.

We had a really good flight to LAX. Caught up on all the movies I desperately wanted to see. Oh my goodness that A380 is huge, but so quiet. Every now and then you need to stop to figure out whether the engines are actually going. But, at 560,000 kg I guess it wouldn’t stay up there long if they weren’t.

Well LAX was the epitome of total organisation (not). Apparently, as a cost saving measure, the US border control policy is now not to open until 7.30am and then just start with one single border control person. Well that is fine in theory, but someone needs to tell the airlines not to bring in three A380s at 6.15 in the morning and fill the whole arrival hall up with tired, grumpy Australians. After two hours of standing in line, we finally got through. The only bright side was a charming US customs officer who said to me ‘I hope you enjoy travelling with your sister!’ – I told him he was my new best friend.

We didn’t have any time to do anything but grab our bags, take them to the transfer section (not sure why you need to do that) and then walk across to the domestic terminal for our flight to DC.

After diverting to Baltimore in the blackest cloud, the pilot changed his mind and we finally touched down (skidded across the tarmac) at Dulles. All good though. We shared a ride in with a totally in control female. I love the way these gorgeous African American women just exude total confidence. Mister got the lecture all the way about needing to shape up or ship out.

We arrived at Laura and Raymond’s wonderful B&B in time for a glass of wine and the usual evening political banter. Lyds had the most organised case – all folded beautifully in rows and color co-ordinated – well US customs must have decided to repack for her – as what a mess she found when she opened it.

We decided the best way to beat jetlag was to walk –I think I almost killed Lydia with our short stroll. We left about eight. Walked down to the Lincoln Memorial – Lincoln was sitting majestically bathed in wonderful golden light. DC really is at its best in the dark. We climbed up and looked across the Mall to Capitol hill, that great white neoclassical building that just makes me think of Sam and Josh. Along the Mall and around the park to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue – I really did expect to see Josiah Bartlett out for his evening stroll.  We staggered back up Constitution Avenue and found the great Kramerbooks.

They claim to serve latte to the literati but they also do pretty decent Maryland crab cakes.

We snuck back into Laura and Raymond’s gorgeous house at close to midnight, and fell into a comatose state.

Today, after a delightful breakfast at the Embassy we caught the train to the Smithsonian. Hadn’t quite managed a trip to the ATM so we stood for ages feeding coins into the machine desperately hoping that my stack of loose change would add up to the US $4 that we needed for the train. I think the man begging at the station watched us and lost interest pretty quickly.

The elephant at the Museum of Natural History was standing quietly. He might have been out for a romp around the night before but he was back, well behaved when we got there. We visited the dinosaurs and our ancestors and then strolled the kms to Georgetown. Back to Laura’s and a civilised cab ride to what must be one of the most beautiful stations in the world.

Our train ride to New York  City was very easy – so civilised with internet access the whole way. Our hotel is really comfortable and the location is great. Macy’s just at the front of us, the Empire State just down the road.

Tonight we wandered down to the totally serene Hangawi restaurant and after a truly gorgeous dinner are tucked up in bed with NY out the window.

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